I love this area too and it’s not just because I’ve adopted Tristan’s sweet as pie, strong and generally awesome Grandma (whom we stayed with in Scotts Valley). Her house backs onto a redwood forest and to get there you cross a small bridge that her now passed husband had built. I hoped her talk of bobcats behind the house was just to scare me (but I don’t think so). We held a baby salamander though! It was about 3cm long, reddy black and looked weird and vulnerable as it crawled around the forest floor on its own.
For a week, we went for walks, watched the Olympics and hung out in nearby Santa Cruz. It’s a home of surf culture and the only place I can think of where even the locals where t-shirts and hoodies emblazoned with ‘Santa Cruz’. It’s about a seven hour drive south of Arcata and still pretty cold.
The boardwalk may just be where the movie The Lost Boys was filmed. I could imagine a young Keifer Sutherland flying over head and the Corey’s creeping around (in a good way). There’s a strong 50s theme with pastel colours, pin ball machines, a roller coaster and probably fairy floss somewhere.
A sea lion and seal colony live on pylons under the pier. We were lucky to see them swimming out into what we thought was seaweed but turned out to be an abundant hunting ground of fish. They swam off instantly to reveal clear water; a pretty cool sight. We also watched a group of dolphins, all in the space of 15 minutes and right by the pier.
In downtown there’s an abundance of people with dogs, cool food places, stores and about six op shops , mostly still full of awesome finds. Australia seems to have picked its way through all that’s left from before 1980, but Californian’s have a lot left to mine from 1900’s on wards, maybe because of their much larger population.
On Valentine’s Day we saw the midnight screening of The Rocky Horror Picture Show. It amazes me that there always seems to be a steady flow of 16-22 year olds obsessively in love with that movie (I was one of them). The queue ran for two blocks and tickets sold out (being organised adults now, of course we already had tickets, ner ne ner ner). These midnight screenings are known for being a riot, but I’d underestimated the American enthusiasm and felt very Australian casually not shouting every call back. I’m not sure if I was proud or embarrassed. Either way, a fun night!
During the day we picnicked at the Garden of Eden; a little known gorgeous spot by the river in Henry Cowell State Park. You get there by walking along a forest railroad track and going down a narrow path (Lost Boys again…).
We also visited Capitola with Tristan’s dad and Monterey where his friend lives. Both are laid back, cute towns along the sea and have a 30s feel; wooden board walks, niche stores and salt water taffy by the barrel. I can’t not say taffy with a big twang; ‘taaeaafy’ and I rationed my precious bag of it until my efforts backfired in Brasil when they melted into one big (and probably delicious) gloop. I didn’t eat it. For shame.
Next stop, Ojai.
Los viajes de Bianca. 